Country Painting -The Brushes –

In Country Painting there are different types of brushes depending on what we want to paint.

Personally I divide the brushes into two groups:

-the brushes I use to paint the basecoating
-the brushes I use to paint the shadows and highlights

The brushes I use to paint the basecoating are actually the “old” brushes I used to shade that have slightly deteriorated over time while the ones I use for shades are absolutely perfect.

There are many brands of brushes, the most famous and therefore the most used in Country Painting are:

Jo Sonias
Kingart (la ex Loew Cornell)

In the list that I have indicated to you, there is no better brand than another, they are all the “Top” that can be found on the market. The choice of one brand rather than another (with the same type of brush) is very personal and depends on your “style of painting”. Many American artists have their “favorite” brand for example Jamie Mills Price uses Jo Sonias, Laurie Speltz uses Dynasty, Holly Hanley uses Princeton and so on. I personally use Jo Sonias brushes for blending and Dynasty stencil brushes. My advice is to try more than one brand, only in this way can you realize, using them, which manufacturer you are better with!

The types of brushes

Brushes have different shapes, sizes, depending on what we need to paint:

  • Round
  • Flat or Wash
  • Angular
  • Filbert
  • Stencil
  • Mop
  • DryBrush
  • Stippler
  • Liner
  • ScriptLiner

These are the “classic” types then of course each brand has its own particular lines.

The Brushes for the Basecoat

To paint the basecoat of my projects I use different types of brushes depending on the space I have available and the type of drawing.
For very large bases I use a roller brush or a very large flat brush
To then paint the various parts of the design I usually use round brushes, angles or flat if the design is “geometric”. If, on the other hand, the drawing is round, I really love to use the filbert brush. I always choose the type of brush that best suits the shape of the drawing.

Brushes for Shades

For the shades (lights and shadows) with the “Float” technique you can use both flat brushes and angular brushes. There is no right or wrong brush, it depends on how used you are to work. I use flat brushes like Jamie Mill Price but for example Laurie Speltz uses angled brushes. If you are starting now my advice is to try both brushes and see which one you feel best with!

The Brushes for Special Effects

In these cases, for each effect or technique we are going to use there is a brush on purpose!

STENCIL BRUSHES: they exist in different sizes, have stiff bristles and are used when we need to use stencils (if you want to see how stencils are used you can watch the video HERE)

MOP: the mop is a “magic” brush there are of course different sizes (even if they are not many) and it allows you to go and “fix” the float you painted by eliminating any lines thus making your shade uniform.

THE BRUSHES FOR DRYBRUSH: there are many types of these brushes and obviously also in different sizes. They have rigid or semi-rigid bristles and are usually used when we need to create highlights (so to create the lights) “dry” as the word DryBrusch = dry brush says.

STIPPLER: also of these brushes there are many types and obviously also in different sizes each manufacturer has its own type of “stippler”. They are used to create the “fur” effect in teddy bears or the fur borders of hats, I also use them a lot when I go to highlight the snowmen to get a “soft” effect.

LINER AND SCRIPTLINER BRUSH: these brushes are absolutely indispensable for painting the “details” and the “details”, the pine needles, the writings, the branches, the eyebrows and the mouths. The SCRIPTLINER unlike the LINER has longer bristles and allow you to more easily create decorations that require long brush strokes such as Santa’s beards and branches.

I hope this article was useful to you!
For any questions you can leave a comment below or write an email


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